Escape to The Sapphire & Wilderness Coast: Whale watching on remote beaches
Australia’s south-eastern coastline is home to the Sapphire Coast, a stunning region in New South Wales stretching from Bermagui down to the Victorian border. This area is renowned for its 225km of brilliant coastline, with 101 beaches, 26 estuaries, and small towns like Bega, Eden, Merimbula, and Tathra. As the coastline continues south, it becomes the increasingly remote “Wilderness Coast”, famous for the 100km Wilderness Coast Walk which runs primarily through Victoria’s Croajingolong National Park.
Coastal Terrain and Geology
The Sapphire Coast, and its contiguous Wilderness Coast areas, feature a dramatic and rugged landscape where dense green forests run directly down to the ocean. 78% of the Bega Valley Shire’s land is protected within national parks and state forests.
DEVONIAN ROCK & ANCIENT GEOLOGY
The coast is famous for its iconic pink and red ‘Devonian’ rock—sandstone and mudstone deposited 360-380 million years ago. Even older formations exist, like the 500-million-year-old Horse Head Rock near Bermagui. Other spectacular features include The Pinnacles, a stunning sand and clay formation, as well as vibrant red cliffs, caves, and famous ocean pools like the Blue Pool in Bermagui.
REMOTE SOUTHERN TERRAIN
In the far south, the terrain becomes more remote and physically demanding. This section is best known for the challenging Wilderness Coast Walk, a route that traverses isolated beaches, vast estuaries, sea caves, and shifting sand dunes, such as those at Cape Howe.
Wildlife and Vegetation
Flora
The region’s plant life is very diverse, with everything from coastal forests and woodlands to rolling heathlands and seaside bush. The Wilderness Coast walk take you through ancient forests, while other coastal trails feature prehistoric burrawang palms. You can also find small pockets of rainforest near Pambula.
Many tracks are known for their distinctive spotted gums, while other paths, like the one to The Pinnacles, are famously lined with banksias.
Fauna
Marine Life
The Sapphire Coast is one of Australia’s premier whale watching destinations. The ‘Humpback Highway’ is busiest during the southern migration to Antarctica (August-November). The northern migration occurs from May to August. Alongside whales, pods of dolphins and seals gather in the waters, with dolphins common along Nadgee beaches. Orcas (killer whales) have also been spotted.
Land Animals and Birds
On land, kangaroos, wallabies, and wombats are sometimes spotted. The area is a haven for birds of prey, including wedge-tailed and white-bellied sea eagles. Numerous seabirds like short-tailed shearwaters and sooty oystercatchers are also common.
In Croajingolong National Park, common animals include Brush-tailed Possums, Long-nosed Bandicoots, Yellow-Bellied Gliders and Eastern water dragons.
Historical Significance and Indigenous Connections
Indigenous Heritage
The Sapphire Coast is situated within Yuin Country, a land inhabited by the Yuin people since at least 5000 BC. The ongoing connection of the Traditional Custodians to the land, air, and sea is deeply acknowledged across the region, including in Croajingolong National Park, which is recognised as part of an Indigenous cultural landscape.
This living connection is evident in numerous significant sites and experiences. Biamanga National Park includes important Indigenous sites, while the ancient Bundian Way serves as a pathway for cultural walking experiences. A key part of this is the Bundian Way Story Trail, a 3.8km track in Eden that shares local stories along its path to secluded coves. This vibrant culture is celebrated at the Giiyong Festival, Southern NSW’s largest multi-arts Indigenous cultural festival, held on Thaua Country at ‘Jigamy’ near Eden.
European history
Following European settlement in the 1800s, the region’s economy was built on farming, timber, fishing, and mining. The Bega Valley Shire itself was formed much later, in 1981, by amalgamating three existing shires.
Whaling Legacy
A dominant part of this early history was the whaling industry, which established Eden as Australia’s whale capital. This legacy is preserved in key landmarks, such as Boyds Tower (built 1847) in Beowa National Park, a key lookout station for whalers. The Eden Killer Whale Museum, founded in 1931, houses the skeleton of the legendary orca “Old Tom,” famous for his unique, cooperative relationship with the local whalers.
Green Cape Lighthouse
At the southern end of the Light to Light walk stands the Green Cape Lighthouse, the southernmost lighthouse in NSW. It serves as a monument to the area’s maritime history and the many disasters that occurred off the rugged coast, most notably the 1886 wreck of the Ly-ee-Moon.
Weather and Seasonality
The Sapphire Coast and its surrounding wilderness enjoy a temperate climate, offering opportunities to explore throughout the year.
Summer is the high season, characterised by warm water and sunny days, perfect for swimming.
Autumn provides ideal walking temperatures and calm days. The water remains warm, and low winds make it ideal for kayaking on the estuaries and lakes.
Winter is the quiet low season. This period also coincides with the northern whale migration.
Spring is the peak period for the southern migration of humpback whales returning to Antarctica.
Temperature graph
Below is the average temperature for this region, where the shaded area highlights the range expected 80% of the time.
Best Time for Walking
Spring and autumn are often regarded as the best seasons for hiking. Both seasons offer great weather and pleasant temperatures. Spring provides the additional bonus of excellent opportunities for land-based whale watching.
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